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The most sustainable way to source fabrics

Introducing Deadstock

Fabric waste is one of the biggest problems in the fashion industry today, right up there with the overconsumption and making of clothing. It all starts from overproducing fabric itself. Over 100 billion new garments are produced every year and within this number also sits a huge surplus of fabric which has been produced and never gets used by fashion brands. Its something that doesn't get spoken about enough and the overstocking of fabric means we need to find a solution. 

Introducing ‘deadstock’ fabrics. What is it and why do we call it the most sustainable way to source fabric? Deadstock fabrics are what is left over after factories and fashion brands have finished producing fashion garments with them. They sometimes go straight to landfill however there are a few wholesale suppliers doing their part and rescuing them by buying and then reselling to other smaller brands (like us!).

According to ‘Good On You’ its reported that less than 1% of the material used to produce clothing is recycled into new clothing and we are so proud to be a brand that's part of that statistic. By using fabrics that are not virgin materials, it means we need to order less fabric to be made for us which reduces our personal environmental footprint by the percentage that we use at Gem The Label. 

One of the biggest misconceptions about deadstock fabric is that it's somehow inferior. The fact that its labelled as fabric which was otherwise going to landfill gives the idea that it should go there, not that its the fashion industry once again wasting resources created equally to what's used to create garments but just misjudging numbers and over producing. Deadstock fabric is the same quality and the same fabric that was destined for retail fashion production.

Therefore its high quality by definition + with the added bonus of knowing you’re doing good by purchasing something that could have had a very different life. 

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How we source deadstock

Trusted Wholesale Partner

We don't just buy deadstock from anyone but instead have grown and close partnership with Wall Fabrics. Originally started in Auckland, New Zealand, Wall Fabrics has opened studios in Sydney (sadly now closed) and Melbourne for deadstock to be accessed. We partner with Wall because they allow for complete transparency in their fabric sourcing and where it originated. This helps in many ways and means we know where its all coming from. Strong supplier connections is important and we work with our Wall Fabrics representative Imogen closely to find the best fabrics specifically for Gem The Label 

How we source deadstock fabrics

Natural Fibres

All of the deadstock we have sourced to date at a minimum has to be at least 90% natural fibres. Only one fabric we have sourced includes 10% lurex. All pother have been 100% natural fibres. We usually opt for linen, cotton and silks. Sometimes they are plain base fabrics and sometimes they have prints which we carefully curate to go alongside our collections and prints we produce in house at Gem The Label. textile waste to apparel for them to recycle since 2022. 

how we source deadstock fabrics

Traceable

We only purchase fabrics from our wholesale supplier Wall Fabrics that are traceable. At a minimum, we need to know the country of origin these fabrics were produced which they can give a 100% guarantee on. Beyond this, we are also able to be given more information on some fabrics and these are the ones we like to source the most. Sometimes when the brand it came from is able to be disclosed to us, we are able to trace their supply chain and find the exact factory and certifications that the fabric has on top of being recycled deadstock. For our next collection coming in spring, we have all deadstock fabrics having an OKETO-TEX standard 100 certification and one linen even with a GOTS organic certification. Its exciting for us to bring deadstock into our brand and ones with traceable origins are even better. 

how we source deadstock fabrics

Sample before purchasing

We are able to get a small meterage of fabrics we are interested to test if they actually work for us. This means we dont buy fabric we wont end up using for the thrill of it but the purchase is instead tested and intentionally made. Just like we encourage at GTL, conscious sourcing of fabrics and only what we actually need is so important and so we practice this with our deadstock sourcing too. 

The most sustainable way to source fabrics

Its a cleaner way to source

The dyeing and finishes that can be added to fabric is a chemical process. This means there is usually a lot of water used, a whole heap of energy used adding to the CO2 emissions, release of toxins as by products of the process and labour. 

By supporting the deadstock industry and effectively recycling the fabric and working it into Gem The Label collections, we don't add to this production. Its already happened, meaning you can support GTL and our deadstock pieces knowing that rather than producing new we have saved on the cost to the environment and giving new life to something already created. It also means it reduced the demand for virgin fabrics we print on through supporting this circular model. 

Our goal for 2027 and into 2028 is to source deadstock fabrics and print, embellish and embroider them rather than using virgin materials. This poses some challenges such as inconsistencies in rolls, shorter meterage and the smaller pool of fabrics to choose from. As we continue to grow and evolve, it is a target we have in mind to create one small run using this process to see how it goes and eventually grow to a point where no virgin materials are being used. We are so sure we can get there because we know just how much fabric is being overproduced in the fashion industry. We hope that we can divert this fabric form going to landfill and truly make it Gem The Label one meter at a time.